When you walk among our rows in winter, with the fog enveloping the Modena countryside, it seems as if nature is sleeping. But beneath that apparent calm lies the fruit of passionate labor that we harvested with our own hands months ago during the harvest.
Today we want to take you “behind the scenes” of the Swan Estate to tell you not just about a product, but a piece of our history: the cooked must.
From the land to the bottle: our harvest
It all starts in our 5 hectares of vineyard.
Here we proudly grow the Lambrusco grapes from Modena, Trebbiano from Spain and Trebbiano of Modena.
For us, the grape harvest isn't just an agricultural process: it's a ritual. It requires hard work, bent backs, and early morning wake-ups, but it's "good" hard work. It's the moment we gather what the earth has given us. These grapes don't all become wine: a precious portion of the harvest follows a different, slower and more patient path to become cooked must , or as we call it in Emilia, Saba.
The black gold of tradition: what is Saba?
Saba (or Sapa ) is one of the oldest and most authentic products of our Emilian peasant tradition. It is, quite simply, cooked grape must : a true natural sweetener that our grandparents used long before sugar became common.
How do we get it at the Cigno Estate?
The process is a ritual of patience that begins immediately after the harvest.
- Let's take the fresh must (the freshly pressed grape juice) of our Trebbiano and Lambrusco grapes, before it begins to ferment to become wine.
- We put it to cook in a large pot slow fire and direct, in the open air.
- We let it simmer gently for many hours (often even overnight!).
During cooking, the water evaporates and the must concentrates, reducing to a third of its original volume. The result is a thick, dark , and fragrant syrup containing only the grapes' natural sugars. No additives, no chemicals: just grapes, heat, and the time needed to make them delicious.
In the past, when refined sugar was a luxury item few could afford, cooked must was the natural sweetener of our countryside . It provided energy for children and a festive touch to humble desserts.
An indelible memory: Nonna Maria's "granita"
There's a special memory we treasure here in the family, one that always moves us to share. It concerns Ermes Malpighi , the fourth generation of our family.
Ermes often recalls when he was a child and, during the cold Modena winters, it snowed much more than it does today. His mother, Grandma Maria , had a magical way of transforming that snow into an unforgettable snack. She would take a cup of freshly fallen snow and pour drops of thick, dark Saba over it . The contrast between the icy white snow and the sweet, enveloping warmth of the cooked must is a flavor reminiscent of home, family, and simple things. The process is a ritual of patience that begins immediately after the harvest.
During cooking, the water evaporates and the must concentrates, reducing to a third of its original volume. The result is a thick, dark , and fragrant syrup containing only the grapes' natural sugars. No additives, no chemicals: just grapes, heat, and the time needed to make them delicious.
In the past, when refined sugar was a luxury item few could afford, cooked must was the natural sweetener of our countryside . It provided energy for children and a festive touch to humble desserts.
A recipe for you: the "last minute" dessert
We may not use snow anymore, but we can recreate that magic on our tables, especially during the Christmas holidays.
Want to impress your guests with an incredibly simple yet elegant dessert?
Here's our advice: cream ice cream with a drizzle of cooked must.
Making this recipe is really simple. All you need is a good tub of artisanal cream (or fiordilatte) ice cream and, just before serving, garnish it with cooked must (or Saba).
The must is not cloying like industrial chocolate or caramel toppings: it has a complex, fruity and slightly acidic flavor that “degreases” the ice cream cream.
It's a perfect pairing that tells the story of our land in a single bite.
Cooked Must is a versatile product that is a must-have in the pantry of anyone who loves good food.
Are you curious to taste cooked must?
Contact us for more information on how to purchase it or to discover how we produce it here at Tenuta del Cigno.
We'd be happy to bring some of our sweetness to your home.